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Reparing the slide out switch on my RV.

One of the defects we noticed when we bought our RV is that the slide out switch was not seated properly. The slide out mechanism worked, so it was just the switch mounting. When I opened the switch panel, I could immediately see that the main problem was the wires to the switch were too short, so they were constantly pulling sideways on the switch. And it appeared an attempt was made to fix the problem by gluing the switch from the backside.

Both the manufacturer and dealer deserve a "shoddy workmanship" award for both the installation and repair attempt.

I am becoming more and more aware that the Northeastern Indiana RV industry excels at poor workmanship. I guess the whole RV industry slept through the ISO 9001 revolution in the 1990s.

Upon opening the switch panel, it was very apparent the problem was the wires going to the slideout switch were just too short.

I decided to replace the switch as the original switch had glue all over it, and the mounting tabs were damaged. The replacement switch I used was a Carling p/n: 651 882-BB-0N.

I was able to buy this switch from Mouser.Com.

Most switches I had found of this type have a "I-0-II" legend on the face of the switch, which is not what I wanted. The above part number is for a blank switch face (without the I-0-II legend).

One thing that is important is these switches use lugs having a 0.187 width. Most connectors are for 0.250 wide terminals, so they are going to be too large for this switch. You need to buy the 0.187 connectors, which are not that easy to find.

As well, when you remove the existing lugs from the switch, the thickness of the switch lugs are fairly thick, and tend to open the female lugs a bit too far for the male jumper wire lugs, so you could have a loose connection. Therefore, you may have to use a pair of pliers and (carefully) squeeze the connectors closed a bit.

The first caution you need to take is to secure the wires before removing them from the switch so that they do not fall into the wall. If this happens, you may never be able to retrieve the wires.

I did this by using wiring "cat gut" which these days is a synthetic fiber, very similar to un-waxed dental floss, except it is more heavy duty. This material is normally used to bundle wire and cables, so it is appropriate to use it here.

 

 

 

Next, I created 3 jumper wires. I only had white wire, so I marked the three wires with one, two, or three bands using a Sharpie. Those bands correspond to the switch lugs (with #1 at the top, #2 at the center, and #3 at the bottom).

I also wrote down the color code of the original wires to #1, #2, or #3 wire as a permanant cross reference. I wrote down this cross reference to the inside of the wall, so it will always be there.

Next, I connected the jumper wires to the switch and the existing wires. I did not have large enough heat shrink to cover the "splices" so I bundled them with a bit of electrical tape. Finally, I used a bulkhead pad and cable tied the three wires to the back wall so they would be secure.

The only thing left to do is to button up the panel. I left the "cat gut" string in the panel for future use if needed.

 


Completed repair.

 

  

Repair Video.

 

 


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Last reviewed and/or updated June 15, 2017