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Building the board.

 

Of course, the first thing you will need is a circuit board, and like all of my other elecronics projects, the board is available from OSHPark. Order from OSH Park

When you get the board, you will notice a hash-blocked out area. This is for a future possible enhancement - surge suppression. I have not decided to release this feature yet because any board using surge suppressors should be UL tested. This is mostly a liability issue on my part. Currently I am using surge suppression on my board, but I not at this point ready to release the information to add the feature. If and when I do, you will simply have to add a couple of components (you will not have to replace the board).

This board is similar to the RV Option but with the addition of the accelerometer. This necessitated in the enlargement of the board, which means it needs to fit in a larger case. I was able to find a suitable enclosure on eBay. Unfortunately there is no part number for the case, it is just called a "80x23x90mm aluminum enclosure". Try searching on those terms and see if you find one.

 

Construction and a parts list are contained within a set of build instructions, available here:

 

The board has an option for using either an Adafruit ADXL335 or Generic SY-61/GY-61 Accelerometers. As shown to the right, a set of 5 pins is provided for the Sy61/Gy-61 boards, while the Adafruit uses 7 pins.

You can also use an accelerometer of your choice, provided it is a 3 axis accelerometer, has a 5 pin orientation, is an analog output (generally Analog Devices ADXL335 based), and has a 5V/3.5V regulator. All of the accelerometers in the materials list have these features, but you can experiment with others should you wish to.

 

I also am providing a set of end panels that I had made for the enclosure. These can be rather expensive to have built, so one option is to print the panels out using the Front Panel Express app (they print life-size), then drill your own holes for the connector and knob.

End Panels: I had custom end panels made for the aluminum enclosure I used with this version. If you wish to replicate those panels, you can find templates HERE: Download panels CP-3 and CP-4.

Next, you will want to decide where to mount the Cylon Eye and the Driver board. Consult the previous page on mounting orientation options, and determine which axis (X, Y, or Z) you will be using. eter.

 

 

I would suggest mounting the enclosure with the rear panel in place (the connector side), and install the circuit board about 60% of the way in. That way, you will have access to the Coarse adjustment potentiometer yet the circuit board will not wobble around too much. This also assumes you have the RV level.

Before you adjust the coarse potentiometer, center the fine adjust (the long potentiometer with the adjustment screw on the side). This is a 15 turn potentiometer, so the easiest way to center it is to turn the adjustment screw 15 turns clockwise, then 7 1/2 turns counter-clockwise.

Adjust the coarse potentiometer until you get as close as you can to displaying the center (green) LED on the Cylon Eye. You don't have to be that accurate though. If all you can do is to get the LED to change from LED1 to LED9, then that point should be sufficiently close.

Next, put the circuit board all the way into the enclosure and attach the front cover. Then adjust the fine potentiometer until the Green LED on the Cylon Eye is on. This is center.

Then test the RV by driving around with it hitched to your tow vehicle. Determine if you want to change the tilt function.

Note that if you change the orientation of the enclosure, change the tilt or axis, you will have to re-zero the coarse and fine potentiometers again.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

   

 

 


Last reviewed and/or updated Mar 14, 2026