The Tiki lights are one of my wife's favorites. She always sets them out at the campsite. Everyone knows where our trailer is...

Unfortunately, the Tiki lights are not very waterproof. After only a season, the inside components of one case was a rusted pile of electonics. While the Tiki lights are not that expensive, buying replacements are only a temporary fix, as we will be right back to having to contend with inoperative lights in an other year.

So it is time to waterproof everything. Repairs are also in order as both of the units we have have suffered from water damage. While the initial cost of these modifications may exceed the original cost of the lamp, it waterproofs it sufficiently that you will not have to replace the lamp every year. And since most of the components are purchased in multiple quantities, you will have sufficient repair parts for several repairs.

Another reason these units fail is because the batteries die. Not so much from the solar cells not having sufficient charge capability, but how the On-Off switch works.

The design of the LED Driver/Solar Charger IC simply requires disconnection of the battery from the Charger when the sytem is turned off. Unfortunately in the OFF state, the battery cannot be charged.

The system must be turned ON to either charge the battery in the daytime or operate the LED at night. The Charger IC monitors the solar panel output and automatically switches from battery charging to LED operation depending on the ambient light.

This allows a situation wherein the switch can be left ON, but when put away in storage, the LED will completely discharge the battery. Therefore, it is important to insure the power switch is OFF prior to storing the light in a dark area.

My goal is to completely waterproof the electronics package, at least to IPx4 standards (splashing water). In order to accomplish this, the case must be modified as shown. Also, I wanted to have the On-Off switch on the outside for reasons mentioned, which also requires modification of the case. The required cut outs are easily done with the combination of a Dremel rotary tool, VersaTip, or X-Acto knife with a #18 chisel blade.

The wiring diagram is pretty simple. I also put the wire color codes on the circuit board. However, since I did not have a Violet wire (Solar +), I substituted a Blue/Green wire.

Option: While the video shows wiring the LED directly to the circuit board, you may find it does not protrude into the clear lens far enough. In that situation, you can solder a couple of wires to the circuit board, then attach to the LED as shown below. That will allow the LED to be positioned lower into the lens.

Notes:

1. A search on Amazon or eBay for "QX5252F" should reveal many offerings, so the source will not be listed here.
2. Boot included with switch specified above.
3. The parts listing is for every conceiveable part that might be required for repair. Each repair may not need every part.
4. Some parts have a higher quantity than 1.
5. LEDs are available in different colors and different flash rates.

As an alternative, an aftermarket circuit board can be used. That will alleviate the need to construct a custom circuit board. However, you will run into the same waterproofing issues. At minimum, I recommend conformal coating of the board, either with the brush on coating shown above, or the spray-on coating shown below.

And I have also located a source of the switches if you do not want to replace them with a waterproof switch - but again, be warned you may be replacing them often.